Good skin is always in trend. We do take care of our skin but in bits and pieces. It would be easy to maintain a healthy skin when you start to understand why it is essential to have good skin. With advanced research and technological developments various ingredients come to light that support skin and its health.
We asked Shefali Trasi Nerurkar, Consultant Dermatologist, Dr. Trasi Clinic and La Piel Skin Clinic about key ingredients this year that will support skin health.
“In this year of 2021, I am looking forward to the use of polyhydroxy acids and polyhydroxy bionic acids. We are all well aware of the alpha and beta hydroxy acids. These acids have been ruling the markets over last 10-15 years of our lives however with the introduction of polyhydroxy acids and bionic acids there is a new hope for the skin not adjusting to the older acids.” says Shefali.
Similar to the AHA and BHA, PHAs and PHBAs are also a class of compounds which exfoliate the skin but without irritation and better acceptability. They contain multiple hydroxyl groups on the molecule making it larger in size. Hence there is a gradual penetration and less sensory discomfort. Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are the widely used molecules of PHA and PHBA.
Lactobionic acid is a powerful inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase enzyme leading to a firmer, tighter and supple skin. PHAs are strong humectants and can retain moisture in the skin. They can preserve the skins own natural collagen and enhance the skin elasticity and resiliency. They exhibit a good antioxidant effect on skin. Lastly, they reduce unwanted skin darkening and uneven skin hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin synthesis and increasing the cell turnover. Trasi Nerurkar summarises that skincare has a new molecule with a bright future and multiple benefits with PHAs and PHBAs in it.