If flawless, second-skin makeup is your goal, underpainting might be your new obsession. Here is a simple-to-follow guide with expert tips from Vaishnavi Jain, Bridal makeup artist and educator, on how you can achieve the perfect base with underpainting method.
Once a backstage artist trick, underpainting method is now viral across beauty social media. The technique flips the traditional order of base makeup. Instead of applying foundation first and topping it with concealer, bronzer, and blush, underpainting applies pigment under the foundation. It creates dimension that looks natural, seamless, and sculpted without any harsh lines in sight.
The idea behind underpainting isn’t new, celebs like Marylin Monroe and Old Hollywood MUAs used similar tricks. Today’s formulas and techniques have brought it back in a softer, more wearable way. The result? Skin that looks sculpted without looking “done,” glowy without looking shiny, and fresh without needing five layers of product.
What Is Underpainting?
Underpainting is a layering technique where contour, blush, and concealer are applied before foundation. Instead of sitting on top and looking blocky or overdone, the foundation acts like a sheer veil, allowing the colours beneath to peek through and blend naturally.
Think of it like adding a soft-focus filter but in real life.
This method also mimics the natural undertones of the face: warmth where the sun hits, coolness in shadow areas, and brightness where you typically see reflection. The effect is more realistic than adding depth after foundation.
Why it works
- Gives a lifted and sculpted look without harsh contour lines
- Looks natural and skin-like; like you woke up glowing
- Ensures makeup lasts longer because pigment is layered
- Prevents over-blending or losing product on top of foundation
Whether you love full glam or soft barely-there makeup, underpainting adapts beautifully.
The underpainting method: A step-by-step guide with expert tips from Vaishnavi Jain
Step 1: Prep the skin
Hydration is non-negotiable. Apply moisturiser followed by a gripping primer. Dewy bases complement underpainting best, but matte skin types can stick to an oil-free base.
Vaishnavi Jain explains, “Whenever we’re moisturising the skin, the technique should be top-notch. Moisturise the skin well so that the products blend well. The technique is to blend the moisturiser with your hands. The heat from the hands will ensure that the product seeps well into the skin.”
While artists often take proper care of the skin, they end up neglecting the under eyes. Jain adds, “Don’t forget to moisturise the under eyes. It’s really essential as it prevents the makeup from looking cakey and powdery in the under eye area.”
Once the skin is well moisturised, primer is the next step. Jain says, “Primer is dehydrated skin’s best friend. It helps to give a hydrated, dewy, and glowing effect.”
“Proper skin prep is the foundation to a perfectly set makeup and moisturising is its most important step.” She adds.
Step 2: Strobe cream
A glowing base is the secret to a healthy-looking skin. This is where the strobe cream comes into picture. Jain explains, “Strobe cream works like a tinted moisturiser with a shine. It will render a beautiful, natural glow to the skin.
Step 3: Cream contour
Place contour where natural shadows exist: under cheekbones, jawline, sides of the nose, and around the perimeter of your forehead. Blend using a brush or sponge in upward motions.
Step 4: Add liquid blush
Smile slightly and apply blush to the apples of your cheeks. For a modern lift, apply it slightly higher than usual. Jain says, “Using a liquid blush is preferred as it helps with a natural-looking glow, making your work easier.”
Step 5: Conceal
Apply concealer under the eyes, around the nose, and anywhere you want brightness. Choose a concealer one to two shades lighter than your natural skin tone.
Step 6: Time to Blend
Now that all the products are in place, it’s time to blend everything together. Jain explains the method and says, “Start by using a damp sponge to blend everything together. Blend in the contour first, then concealer, and blush at the end.”
Step :7 Apply foundation as a veil
Use a sheer or medium-coverage foundation and apply it with a damp sponge or stippling brush. Tap lightly and don’t drag or buff. The base should mute and not erase your sculpting.
Jain explains, “Use a light weight foundation for this look. Using a full coverage foundation will cover up everything that has been underpainted.” She adds, “Start slow and build up if needed but don’t go heavy all at once.”
Step 8: Set Strategically
Reset the concealer in the under eye area. Use powder blush and powder contour to emphasise the underpainted areas. Finally, highlight the high points of the face, add a lipstick, and you’re good to go.
Underpainting is a technique that brings makeup back to looking like skin. With the right placement and light layers, your base will look sculpted, seamless, and naturally elevated.
If you’re looking for an in-depth video to demonstrate the whole process, watch Vaishnavi Jain in action here.