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Rethinking Summer Skincare: Science Over Trends 

by Vidhi Arya
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summer skincare

Summer skin isn’t just about oil or tan, it’s a complex shift in barrier health, hydration, and pigmentation. In an interview with Vidhi Arya, Dr. Shefali Trasi Nerurkar (MBBS, MD (DERMATOLOGY), Consultant Dermatologist , Dr Trasi clinic and La Piel skin clinic) breaks down smarter, season-appropriate skincare and treatments that actually work. 

As temperatures rise, skin begins to behave differently, often appearing oilier while quietly battling dehydration, sensitivity, and pigmentation. In this conversation, Dr Shefali explains the science behind common summer skin concerns and why conventional “lighter skincare” advice often falls short. From facials and non-invasive treatments to managing Indian skin tones prone to hyperpigmentation, she outlines a more balanced, evidence-based approach to maintaining healthy, resilient skin through the harsh summer months. 

Summer changes the way skin behaves in visible ways. What shifts do you typically see in clients’ skin concerns during this season, and how should professionals respond differently? 

“During the summer months, there is a noticeable increase in sebaceous gland activity leading to excessive sebum production, particularly in the T-zone, which often predisposes the skin to comedonal acne and follicular blockage.  

Increased ultraviolet exposure also contributes to tanning, photoaging, and exacerbation of pigmentary disorders such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.  

At the same time, excessive sweating and heat can increase transepidermal water loss, resulting in relative epidermal dehydration despite an oily appearance.  

Inflammatory conditions such as acne vulgaris, rosacea, and sweat-related folliculitis may also flare during this period.  

Management during summer should therefore focus on restoring epidermal barrier function, regulating sebum activity, reducing inflammation, and emphasising strict photoprotection, while selecting aesthetic procedures that are gentle and suitable for skin exposed to higher environmental stress.” 

Do you think summer skincare is often misunderstood as “lighter products only”? What steps should a good summer skincare consist of? 

“Summer skincare is often misunderstood as simply switching to lighter products; however, the primary objective should be maintaining optimal skin physiology in the presence of increased heat, humidity, and ultraviolet exposure.  

A well-designed regimen should begin with gentle cleansing to remove excess sebum, sweat, sunscreen residue, and environmental pollutants without disrupting the skin barrier. Lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturisers containing humectants help maintain hydration and barrier integrity.  

Incorporating topical antioxidants can help reduce oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and pollution. The most essential step remains the regular use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with proper reapplication to prevent photodamage, tanning, and pigmentary changes.” 

How should facials change in summer, especially for those dealing with sweat-related pore blockage, tanning, acne, or sensitised skin? Which would be the best ones? 

“Facials during the summer season should be tailored to address increased sebum production, tanning, and skin sensitivity while avoiding aggressive exfoliation. Treatments that provide deep yet gentle cleansing, mild exfoliation, and enhanced hydration tend to be more suitable.  

Procedures such as HydraFacial-based therapies are particularly beneficial as they help remove excess sebum and impurities from the pores while simultaneously delivering hydration.  

Antioxidant-based facials, especially those incorporating vitamin C, may help improve skin brightness and reduce the effects of photodamage.  

For individuals with acne-prone or sensitised skin, facial protocols that include calming, anti-inflammatory ingredients and controlled comedone extraction can support skin clarity while maintaining barrier stability.” 

Which non-invasive treatments genuinely work well in summer, and which ones need far more careful patient selection because of post-sun pigmentation risks? 

“Non-invasive aesthetic treatments that enhance skin hydration and stimulate mild dermal rejuvenation without significant epidermal disruption tend to perform well during the summer season.  

One must follow procedures such as HydraFacial therapies, skin rejuvenation treatments like Growth Factor Concentrate (GFC), skin boosters, and LED phototherapy with appropriate post-procedure care.  

Seasonal changes do not impact neuromodulator treatments such as Botox and one can get them throughout the year.  

However, procedures involving deeper resurfacing or thermal injury—such as medium-depth chemical peels, fractional lasers, or high-energy light-based treatments—require more cautious patient selection during periods of intense sun exposure because they may increase the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.” 

For Indian skin tones that are more prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation, how should clinics approach peels, lasers, and brightening treatments during peak summer? 

“Melanin-rich skin types demonstrate a stronger melanocytic response to inflammation or epidermal injury, which increases the likelihood of developing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after aesthetic procedures.  

During peak summer, treatment protocols should therefore be conservative and carefully individualised. Superficial chemical peels using milder acids and gradual pigment-regulating treatments are generally preferred over aggressive resurfacing procedures.  

For laser treatments, lower energy settings and cautious patient selection are essential to reduce complications. Adequate skin priming, careful procedural planning, and strict photoprotection play a critical role in ensuring safe and predictable treatment outcomes.” 

How does a professional decide whether a summer skin concern needs a facial, a specialist-led treatment, or simply a better homecare correction? 

“The decision is primarily based on clinical evaluation of the patient’s skin condition, the underlying pathology, and the severity of the concern. One can manage mild issues such as superficial dehydration, dullness, or minimal comedonal activity through supportive facials and optimised skincare routines.  

However, conditions involving persistent acne, pigmentary disorders such as melasma, rosacea, or structural concerns like acne scarring generally require targeted medical or aesthetic interventions such as chemical peels, laser therapies, or regenerative skin rejuvenation procedures.  

In many cases, educating patients about appropriate homecare practices, barrier repair, and consistent sun protection significantly enhances overall treatment outcomes.” 

Are clients today over-treating their skin in summer with too many exfoliating facials, acids, and quick-fix glow treatments? What does that do to long-term skin health? 

“It is increasingly common to observe individuals overusing exfoliating acids, multiple active ingredients, and frequent aesthetic procedures in pursuit of rapid cosmetic improvement.  

While such interventions may temporarily enhance skin brightness or texture, excessive exfoliation can disrupt the stratum corneum and compromise epidermal barrier function. This disruption may result in increased transepidermal water loss, heightened skin sensitivity, persistent erythema, and a greater susceptibility to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.  

Sustainable skin health requires a balanced, evidence-based treatment strategy that respects the skin’s natural repair mechanisms while integrating dermatological and aesthetic procedures at appropriate intervals.” 

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